Sunday, May 20, 2007

Independence Day - Paraguayan Style

Well Reader,

It had to be done...I couldn’t put off a trip to the much ridiculed Paraguay for any longer. I´d hoped to get across the Paraná River before my last few days in Latin America to see the ruins of the Jesuit Mission at Trinidad in Paraguay. It’s a World Heritage Site, but it´s a full day´s trip and on the weekend I did have time I didn´t have any cash. But that´s another story!

Encarnatión, Paraguay´s second city is a few kilometres from Posadas over the bridge, a vital link in Paraguay´s economy since most of the country´s GDP is derived from its exports to Argentina and Brazil. I gather Encarnatión is best known for its Contraband and smuggling.

Paraguay has a population of 6 million....a little more than Scotland I suppose. It declared Independence from Spain on May 14, 1811. This is a handy fact to know in advance if you are planning a shopping trip on May 14th-15th which are bank holidays. It would be difficult to spend much money in Paraguay even if you are buying legit goods and services, but as it was I spent even less.

It´s a strange country; laughed at by its neighbours for being inbred, poor, corrupt and out of touch with the rest of the world. When we were in Iguazu, three little boys were harassing Colin and I for money...I offered them 50 centavados each (8p, which is enough for a one scoop ice cream) on the condition that they would pose against the flag pole for each of three countries we could see....Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. No-one wanted to be Paraguay. War nearly broke out but fortunately they spied other tourists to harass and wanted to wrap it up as fast as possible. Mr Paraguay later demanded more cash for his efforts. He didn´t get any.This was my first glimpse of what Paraguay might be, and if I was the wee boy in Iguazu I now realise I might have demanded more cash too. What I saw of Paraguay was not exactly beautiful. Admittedly I only saw the city and not countryside, which I am sure is more attractive but I understand why there was no "Haste Ye Back" sign on exiting the country. I think the only comparisions one could make with the UK is an impoverished, giant version of Ingliston Market (as was) or Hemswell Cliff (Lincs). Possibly a run down version of Skegness on a wet winter weekend…

Despite this, and although everything most things were shut for the bank holiday, parts of the city still had an air of vibrancy about them. It seemed full of opportunists searching for ways to make a quick buck (or Guaraní). I went with my homestay and when we parked up for a wander a boy offered to guard the car. Half an hour later a better car rolled up and he came to find us to get his cash before going off for richer pickings.
There is no middle class in Paraguay. Paraguayans are either rich or poor.
It´s a very hand-to-mouth existence for those in the latter catagory. We had to queue for well over an hour to get back in to Argentina on the bridge. You don´t need to look at the number plate to see which drivers are Paraguayan...you can tell by whether they are being pushed by hand like this one(Paraguayan), or whether they are being driven (rest of world). If the traffic is walking speed, and the terrain is flat the Paraguayan will always push his motor to conserve fuel. Or because the car doesn´t work.

I am conscious that I am judging an entire country merely on the basis of a short tourist visit to one city, in the same way as I criticised someone else´s judgement of Posadas. I hope I am not doing it a great injustice. I gather nearly half the population live in the countryside, and there is luscious sub tropical vegetation, jungle and wetlands. So I wish I’d had time to go out of the city and explore it because I am sure it beats Encarnatión... Sorry, I shouldn’t really say “I wish I had time” when I have had three months!.

Almost all of Paraguay’s electricity comes from Itapu, the world’s biggest hydroelectric dam, a joint venture between Paraguay and Brazil. Colin and I visited this when we went to Brazil. Unfortunately the ecological impact of the dam was an increase in mosquitoes and a huge rise in the Dengue fever they carry, which is a disease that sounds thoroughly unpleasant with no known cure or vaccine. Most people recover, but the secret is not to get bitten in the first place.

Anyway, it was good to go to Paraguay, not least for the passport stamp. Although if you have a non-Latin American passport, expect to wait a long long time at the border crossing as it is a novelty for the officials to have a foreigner to delay. The greatest benefit of the day trip was the new perspective it gave me; Posadas has never looked quite so resplendent as it did from Paraguay. (as per picture)

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